Tuesday, October 26, 2010

How do you learn new techniques and try out different yarns?

Have you ever fallen in love with a pattern but are scared because you've never done that stitch or garment type before?

There's  nothing worse than buying a beautiful yarn only to discover that the pattern was too hard. I know you can add the yarn to your stash but that's like admitting defeat!

When I want to try something new, or learn a new stitch or technique, I use some cheap stash, usually acrylic in the same ply to make a dishcloth sized piece.  If the pattern is harder than I thought, it's no trouble to rip out a small square of around 40 stitches and start again. If it works out I have another small item to add to my collection.

Once I've learned the stitch I read the pattern through several times to visualise the process. Then I knit a tension (gauge) swatch. This part is VERY important! Even if you are a consistent knitter, a new type of yarn could mean your tension is out by 1 or 2 stitches per 10cms. This might not mean much in the smaller swatch, but multiplied over the total finished size of a garment, could mean a difference of one or more sizes.

So, how do you work a tension swatch? First of all, arm yourself with 1 ball of the desired yarn and the recommended needles. There can be a bit of a difference in tension if you use circular or double pointed needles instead of straight, but I've been using circulars for many years now for both flat and tubular knitting and haven't encountered any problems with tension.

Most gauge information on a yarn ball band are for a 10cm x 10cm sample. In the US, gauge is measured over a 4” square. It's pretty much the same either way.

Cast on the number of stitches specified for the tension, eg, 22sts to 10cm. Add a few more stitches so you have room to measure. I usually cast on 30 stitches.

Knit the square using whatever stitch is recommended in the pattern, eg, stocking stitch, garter (plain) or the main pattern, then cast off.

Now the next bit depends on your way of thinking. Some people just pin and count straight away (I'm one of these people!). Some wash and block their sample before measuring – a more reliable way to prove the gauge.  I personally only do it for a very special project or expensive yarn, but again, it's your choice. Some people let the swatch “rest” on a flat surface for a few hours. Whatever way you choose, it doesn't hurt to try an alternative method every now and again, especially if you are a fairly new knitter who is getting used to the stitch-making process.

To check your tension, measure out 10cms across the swatch. Use long pins to mark the beginning and end. Count how many stitches are between the pins. If there are exactly the number recommended Yippee!! You can go ahead and cast on.

If your tension is 1 stitch out, rework the square using needles up or down one size.  If you have too few stitches per 10cm change the needle to the next size down.  Too many stitches?  Use the next size up.  It's never a good idea to use needles 3 or 4 sizes different though, as this can affect how the yarn drapes and behaves. Too tight tension may make the garment stiff and uncomfortable, and too loose may result in a garment that stretches and loses its shape over time.

If I'm having trouble getting the tension right and am at risk of being up to 10 stitches out on the finished item, I consider making the next size up or down. This way I can keep using the recommended needles and will still get a good fit. If you do this be sure to check finished measurements to make sure length etc are still what you want. You can always knit to your required length if you have calculated correctly.

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Tuesday, October 19, 2010

The Joys of Vintage Knitting

I was recently the lucky recipient of a pile of old knitting patterns.  When I say old, I mean 1940s to about 1982.  I've had a ball looking through them and imagining how I could adapt some of these patterns to today's modern yarns.


2ply Lace Shawl New Idea Knitting Supplement 1960s


Looking through these patterns got me thinking – what has changed since, say, the 1950s, when hand knitting was a normal household pursuit, rather than the hobby that it is today?  Have mass produced garments replaced the appeal of a hand made individual garment, or have the age old skills died out to the point where making your own garments isn't even considered?
Eve Lyn Baby Set 1949

Let's take baby clothes for an example.  Back in the day (choose your favourite time period), women mostly were stay at home wives and mothers.  They hand washed most of their laundry, and there wasn't the range of fashions changing every season to choose from.  When a new baby was announced, a small army of family members would take up the tools and knit pretty much everything the baby would need for the first few months at least.  These garments would be handed down as heirlooms.  Of course there were always jumpers and cardigans for older children, lovingly knitted by grandma and given as Christmas presents (Thanks Gran!  This is so much better than Lego!)

Ladie's 2 piece suit Patons Baldwin No. 129
The bit that gets me is the time it took to knit back in the day.  Yarns were generally a fine 2 or 3ply and needles were either straight or double pointed.  None of your 2 socks on 2 circulars jiggery-pokery.  Combine this with an often complicated lace pattern and it's a wonder anyone got their dinner on time!  Several of the patterns are for baby shawls – cast on 400 or so stitches then follow a 24 row lace pattern for many repeats, THEN do a border...phew!
Ladie's Swing Jacket Patons No. 696 1960s

Time warp to the new century...shawls for women's general wear are back in vogue.  Complicated lace patterns are again the order of the day and socks?  Does anyone actually knit a plain unpatterned sock these days?  Well yes they do, albeit from handspun and handdyed yarn from a limited one off batch spun by the knitter.  The choice of yarns is huge and you could never even start to have a bit of every yarn currently produced (I know plenty of people who are trying though!).  Knitting has become the pastime of thousands of women and men and we can only hope they are teaching their children this noble art.  After all, now that knitting and sewing is no longer being taught in school, where are the new breed going to learn these valuable life skills?

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Thursday, October 14, 2010

So many yarns, so little time!

I have way too many knitting patterns and magazines! Actually, I don't think there is such a thing as too many, any more than the strange concept that you can have too much yarn.

Anyway, I was leafing through some mags, looking for a summer tank top pattern. All this browsing made me realise that there are so many different types of yarns, from the big names, to hand-dyed, hand-spun yarns produced by independent boutique designers. Add to this the gazillions of patterns available and it's a wonder any of us can actually find time to knit after gazing at all that is available.

I did worry when I first started to develop my business plan for YarnSoft, that I wouldn't ever be able to provide even a small representation of the variety that is available today. Then I got to thinking, “from little things big things grow”. I love the yarns that I stock, and I hope you will too. I do intend to offer more products from the smaller independents, as I am passionate about promoting local artisans who are inspired to produce yarns that will be cherished by knitters and crocheters.

But, I have decided to start out by offering a broad range of well known brands and listen to you and consider your feedback for future stock purchases.

I'm about to order some Filatura di Crosa Centolavaggi, which is a laceweight, 100% Merino superwash wool. This wool is ideal for lacework shawls, scarves and garments. I will admit that I am not game to tackle lace knitting just yet! I used to do some lacework years ago for general stuff, like baby clothes, back when lacy matinee jackets were still popular, but age and less patience and time have meant that I just don't get it anymore. I find myself making mistakes and losing my place more often than I used to, so I tend to stick to smaller projects these days. Having said that, I have seen so many beautiful lace patterns that I will admit to being tempted to have a bash at a scarf or small shawl. I think I might start with some 4ply, Like FDC Dolce Amore, or Heirloom baby wool. If you have seen any beginner patterns, do let me know.

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