How do you learn new techniques and try out different yarns?

Have you ever fallen in love with a pattern but are scared because you've never done that stitch or garment type before?

There's  nothing worse than buying a beautiful yarn only to discover that the pattern was too hard. I know you can add the yarn to your stash but that's like admitting defeat!

When I want to try something new, or learn a new stitch or technique, I use some cheap stash, usually acrylic in the same ply to make a dishcloth sized piece.  If the pattern is harder than I thought, it's no trouble to rip out a small square of around 40 stitches and start again. If it works out I have another small item to add to my collection.

Once I've learned the stitch I read the pattern through several times to visualise the process. Then I knit a tension (gauge) swatch. This part is VERY important! Even if you are a consistent knitter, a new type of yarn could mean your tension is out by 1 or 2 stitches per 10cms. This might not mean much in the smaller swatch, but multiplied over the total finished size of a garment, could mean a difference of one or more sizes.

So, how do you work a tension swatch? First of all, arm yourself with 1 ball of the desired yarn and the recommended needles. There can be a bit of a difference in tension if you use circular or double pointed needles instead of straight, but I've been using circulars for many years now for both flat and tubular knitting and haven't encountered any problems with tension.

Most gauge information on a yarn ball band are for a 10cm x 10cm sample. In the US, gauge is measured over a 4” square. It's pretty much the same either way.

Cast on the number of stitches specified for the tension, eg, 22sts to 10cm. Add a few more stitches so you have room to measure. I usually cast on 30 stitches.

Knit the square using whatever stitch is recommended in the pattern, eg, stocking stitch, garter (plain) or the main pattern, then cast off.

Now the next bit depends on your way of thinking. Some people just pin and count straight away (I'm one of these people!). Some wash and block their sample before measuring – a more reliable way to prove the gauge.  I personally only do it for a very special project or expensive yarn, but again, it's your choice. Some people let the swatch “rest” on a flat surface for a few hours. Whatever way you choose, it doesn't hurt to try an alternative method every now and again, especially if you are a fairly new knitter who is getting used to the stitch-making process.

To check your tension, measure out 10cms across the swatch. Use long pins to mark the beginning and end. Count how many stitches are between the pins. If there are exactly the number recommended Yippee!! You can go ahead and cast on.

If your tension is 1 stitch out, rework the square using needles up or down one size.  If you have too few stitches per 10cm change the needle to the next size down.  Too many stitches?  Use the next size up.  It's never a good idea to use needles 3 or 4 sizes different though, as this can affect how the yarn drapes and behaves. Too tight tension may make the garment stiff and uncomfortable, and too loose may result in a garment that stretches and loses its shape over time.

If I'm having trouble getting the tension right and am at risk of being up to 10 stitches out on the finished item, I consider making the next size up or down. This way I can keep using the recommended needles and will still get a good fit. If you do this be sure to check finished measurements to make sure length etc are still what you want. You can always knit to your required length if you have calculated correctly.