My Journey Into Simple Knitwear Design

OK, so I see something I like. Or I have an idea for something. Or (and this is the most common reason!) I’m sick of looking for patterns that don’t fit, or use techniques that I’m not good at, or aren’t quite right...you get the idea!

I like to knit something small using the yarns that I stock at YarnSoft. A hat, scarf or other small item is the perfect way to test my products so I can better advise customers.

So, how do I get an idea from inside my often muddled head to a finished garment?

I do a bit of a sketch. I’m not much of an artist but if I’m looking at doing a patterned fabric I find it helps to draw out a basic pic, even if it looks like a 2 year old did it!

A really dodgy sketch for another hat design!

 

Step 1 – Knit a gauge/tension swatch. Unless you know exactly what gauge works for you, it really is necessary to do this step. I’ve just made a hat using Naturally Aran Tweed and I find that knitting to the recommended gauge creates too firm a fabric and is uncomfortable for me, seeing as my hands are getting a bit creaky with age. I went up a needle size and am pretty happy with the result. To be absolutely sure you should also wash and block your sample to make sure that using a larger/smaller needle isn’t going to make the fabric go out of shape.

Sketch and gauge swatch.

3 recent hat designs.  I did an Excel graph for the tweedy hat (see below)

Excel graph for tweedy fairisle hat

Step 2 – Find the right size pattern. I like making hats but more often than not I can’t get the size right. Once I found the "Hat Wizard" here there was no turning back! It cost a few dollars but has been a godsend for this mathematically challenged knitter! It has a range of basic styles and sizes, and once I have tested my preferred size I know that it will work with any type of yarn. 

Before starting on my preferred design, I made a plain hat using the yarn that I wanted to use in the finished piece. This way I knew if it was going to be a good basic fit and could adjust the sizing to make sure the pattern wasn’t going to change the sizing too much. Cables will pull the knitting in a bit, and could make the hat too tight. Lace patterns are quite open and might make the body of the hat too loose. 

Some people like a snug fitting hat, others like it longer, slouchier etc. It’s much easier to adjust the fit to suit if you have a live example to work with. I’ve noticed that most of the hats that I make for myself could be a few rows longer so they cover my ears properly. Once I have the basic dimensions I can add the rows and work the pattern panel into the adjusted size.

Once I have the right number of stitches I have to make sure that my chosen stitch pattern will fit. In the case of the lace pattern I used for the Kid Cowl and Beanie, the original pattern was a motif worked over 11 stitches. Multiplying it was easy as the hat pattern has 80 stitches at cast on. It was just a matter of increasing by 8 stitches after the ribbing to accommodate the pattern. If I couldn’t make the repeats fit I could leave a stitch or 2 between each motif but in this case I was able to make it an all over pattern, which I preferred.

Sketching can be useful here, especially if a pattern starts and ends with half a repeat. You do need to make sure each half meets up at the seam (or beginning of the round if working as a seamless hat).

Step 3 – Get knitting!

The basic makeup of the beanie is –

• Rib or garter band;
• Main pattern panel;
• Decrease for top of hat.

I find the decreasing part the hardest one to manage, especially with a lace or cable panel to work around. There are a couple of ways that I get around this.

1 Stop the patterning at the decrease and work the rest of the hat in stocking stitch (or garter if that is the main stitch used).

2 Work at least the first couple of decrease rows into the pattern. With the lace I was able to k2tog a few times evenly across the pattern and it did’nt affect the rest of the motif.

Once I had the basics calculated, it was time to start knitting! My first attempt was pretty good if I do say so myself! 

Here it is modelled on Liam who is about 21mths old. It is a comfortable fit and would do a child from his age to around 3, depending on the individual head size. I haven’t done this one in other sizes yet, but I’m pretty sure it won’t be too hard using the hat software and a bit of fiddling on graph paper. I really want a beret style hat for myself, with a short-ish cowl to match. I would love one that wraps around a couple of times, but I’m way too impatient to be knitting something that big!

The cowl was a bit easier, as there are no decreases. You can pretty much make it whatever size you like, and with this pattern, all I would have to do is add or subtract one motif repeat of 11 stitches. 

And here is the pattern for the Kid Cowl and Hat – this will be published in an Australian Knitting Magazine later this year...yay me!

Kid Cowl – cos skivvies are sooo not cool!

This cowl will fit a toddler aged approx 1 – 3 years.

Cowl measures 17 inches around unstretched 

Materials – Peter Pan DK 1 ball

Tools – 3.25mm circular needle 40cm

4.00mm circular needle 40cm.

You can also divide the stitches across 2 longer circs or dpns.

Terminology

K – knit

P – purl

Sl – slip next stitch onto 2nd needle instead of knitting/purling it

Psso – pass slipped stitch over the stitch just knitted

Yf – yarn forward. Move yarn to front of needle just before doing a knit stitch. The yarn makes a loop that will show up when you knit it on the next row

K2tog – knit 2 stitches at once

Pattern

Cast on 108 stitches.

Work 5 rows 2 x 2 rib.

Work 1 row 2 x 2 rib and increase 3 stitches evenly – 111 stitches.

Change to 4.00mm needles

Start pattern – repeat once for a total of 31 rows.

Row 1 – k1 yf sl1 k1 psso k5 k2tog yf k1, rep to end.

Row 2 and all even rows – knit

Row 3 – k2 yf sl1 k1 psso k3 k2tog yf k2, rep to end.

Row 5 – k3 yf sl1 k1 psso k1 k2tog yf k3, rep to end.

Row 7 – k4, yf sl1 k1 psso yf k4 , rep to end.

Row 9 – k3 k2tog yf k1 sl1 k1 psso k3, rep to end.

Row 11 – k2 k2tog yf k3 yf sl1 k1 psso k2, rep to end.

Row 13 – k1 k2tog yf k5 yf sl1 k1 psso k1, rep to end.

Row 15 – k2tog yf k7 yf sl1 k1 psso, rep to end.

Repeat pattern rows 1 – 15 once, then on the last pattern row decrease 3 stitches evenly.

Change to 3.25mm needles.

Work 6 rows 2 x 2 rib. Cast off. Weave in ends.

Kid Hat

This hat will fit a toddler aged approx 1 – 3 years.

Hat measures 13 inches around unstretched

Materials – Peter Pan DK 1 ball.

Tools – Tools – 3.25mm circular needle 40cm

4.00mm circular needle 40cm.

4.00m dpns for top of hat, or 2nd set of 4.00mm circular needles, for finishing the decreasing at the top of the hat.

Using 3.25mm needles cast on 80 stitches. Join, making sure stitches aren’t twisted.

Work 9 rows 2 x 2 rib.

Work 1 row 2 x 2 rib increasing 8 stitches evenly around – 88 stitches.

Change to 4.00mm needles.

Work lace pattern for 2 repeats.

Decrease hat

The decrease is worked over the first 5 rows of the lace pattern then is worked in stocking stitch to the end.

Row 1 – k1 yf sl1 k1 psso k1 k2tog k2 k2tog yf k1 rep to end.

Row 2 – Knit

Row 3 – k2 yf sl1 k1 psso k1 k2tog k2tog yf k2

Row 4 – Knit

Row 5 – k3 yf sl1 k2tog psso yf k3, rep to end.

Row 6 – Knit

Row 7 – k7 k2tog, rep to end

Row 8 – Knit

Row 9 – k6 k2tog, rep to end

Row 10 – Knit

Row 11 – k5 k2tog, rep to end

Row 12 – k2 tog to end.

Rep row 12 until 12 sts are left.

Cut yarn, leaving enough yarn to secure remaining stitches.

Thread yarn through yarn needle, run needle through remaining stitches and secure.

Weave in ends.