Yarnsoft

Times are tough!

2012-01-21T22:18:00.000-08:00

It's been just over a year since the virtual doors of YarnSoft opened...and what a year and a bit it has been!
My decision to open my own business came from a long period of unresolved stress, mostly experienced in my job at the time. Being self-employed has its own set of stresses, not the least being the the worry of not having enough money to pay the bills.

I am now in the position where the mistakes of the past have returned to bite. When I started buying stock, I wanted to have a broad range of yarns, rather than just a few. I knew who my ideal customer was, but I wasn't sure just what they wanted to buy straight away. I knew that most people like natural fibres but can't afford to spend top dollar on a single ball, so I tried to keep the variety broad and the prices reasonable.

My biggest problem has been buying in too much stock too early. This has left me with some large bills that I just can't clear quickly enough for my creditors. Until the bills are paid, I can't order in new stock. I find myself constantly juggling my accounts, and have gone back to work outside the business to try and stay afloat. Money is still an issue, but more frustrating is the lack of time I now have to enjoy my business...very annoying!

Enough of the sob story! I can see that the only way to get through the next few months and keep the business viable for the next Australian knitting season I need to shed as much stock as I can. And the only way I can do this is reduce reduce reduce! I've marked everything on the site at 50% off and this will remain until I have managed to get on top of the accounts. The sale will start on Monday 23 January 2012.

Do feel free to contact me to check stock levels. I add the quantity to the title of each item, but if I don't get time to update this manually, an order might go through for a quantity that I don't have. If this does happen to anyone, I'll do my best to get the complete order to you, or offer a complete refund.

So, if you can stick with me through this tough time, I'm sure YarnSoft will continue to give you as much lovely soft affordable yarn as you can fit in your house!

Surf on over to YarnSoft to see what bargains can be had! If you have any questions, you can contact me here.

Six reasons why knitting is good for you and good for the world!

2012-01-09T15:55:00.000-08:00

Knitting, crocheting and crafting in general is no longer the necessity it once was. From the days when everyone wore handknitted clothes on a daily basis, knitting and crochet is now a lifestyle choice.

Here are six ways that I can think of to bring these crafts back into every day life and maybe even do our bit to save the planet -

1 Knitting is a form of slow living. You have to keep at it to see results but thejoy of watching a garment unfold and grow is pretty special. Of course not all knitting is thiscaptivating! Just make sure that nearlyeverything you knit is because you just can’t NOT knit it.

2 A loved hand-knitted garment is more likely to be wornfor years than a mass produced garment. In general, we knit to please our tastes, not blindly followfashion. I have a jumper that I knittedover 10 years ago. It is my wintercover-up jumper which does the job of a dressing gown/blanket beautifully! I’m lucky to live in a climate that doesn’tget freezing cold in winter, so wearing a woolly jumper and socks means I don’thave to have a heater on.

3 If you buy locally produced yarns, you are not onlysupporting local businesses, but you are also reducing the effects thatproduction has on the environment. Reducing the need for transport/large scale manufacturing etc is a greatway to reduce our carbon footprint, while supporting the small business andretail sectors. Even buying commerciallyproduced yarn that is mostly sourced and manufactured in your country makes adifference.

4 Learn to spin! Buy locally sourced fleece, spin it up yourself and make a hugecontribution to saving the world! While you're at it, dip your creative feet into dyeing so you have created the whole package.

5 Teach your children/grandchildren/neighbours childrento knit/crochet. Passing on the skillkeeps it alive and fresh. Just look atwhat people make from yarn…knitting and crocheting is a great way to keep upwith fashion trends.

6 Knitting is a form of stress relief. If you are not the type of person who canrelax while running or exercising, maybe knitting is what you need. The slow, rhythmic movements allow you tobecome lost in the stitches and give your stressed brain time to relax andrepair.

What are some other benefits to you and the environment? I’d love to hear your thoughts.

Rectangle Granny – how to get started, and a couple of patterns to try it out with

2011-07-20T00:00:00.000-07:00

Rectangle Granny – how to get started

Figure 1 A sample of my scarf made from Naturally Mohair 12ply, 2 balls.

Figure 2 Granny rectangle cowl made from 6 balls of Twilleys Freedom Purity

I love crocheting granny squares! I do not, however, love weaving in hundreds of yarn ends or sewing squares together. I recently saw a lovely granny square scarf somewhere on the Internet and wanted to whip one up one evening. I knew that the squares would be fairly quick to crochet, but the ends would take forever.

So, I had a bit of a think, and found a couple of patterns for scarves made in one piece by making a long, narrow rectangular granny…problem solved!

Because you can’t use a ring of chains to use as a foundation, you need to find a way to make a foundation row that will accommodate the first “round” and then maintain the correct shape for subsequent rounds. Again, I had a bit of a look, did some testing, and found that there a quite a few ways to work the foundation. This is one way that I like.

I must point out that, being Australian, I refer to crochet stitches in the following way. Feel free to translate into your preferred crochet-speak!

If any of the instructions are confusing, or you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment and I'll respond as quickly as I can.

Australian	American
Chain	Chain
Double Crochet	Single Crochet
Treble	Double Crochet
Slip Stitch	Slip Stitch

Notes

For a scarf the length of the foundation chain should be close to the required length, remembering that each row will make the rectangle wider. For a blanket, cushion, etc, you can be more relaxed with the length of the foundation. My test started with a 4 treble foundation row and measured 20cm/8in across after 3 rows. If I was going to do a blanket, I would work my foundation row with at least 20 tr/ch repeats.

Row 1 – Make a slip knot. *Chain 3. Work 1 treble in first chain.*

Repeat * *, working the treble in the first chain of each 3ch group until you have the length required.

Figure 3 Working the foundation row 3 chain, 1 treble in first chain in group

Figure 4 How the foundation row should look as you make it.

Row 2 – DO NOT TURN. This row is worked on the foundation row and is worked toward the beginning.

1^st Corner - At this point you have just worked 3 chain. This becomes the first stitch of the corner. Work 2 trebles, 2 chain, 3 trebles in the centre of the first tr/chain. Chain 1.

Continue row - *Work 3 trebles in next hole, chain 1.* Repeat * * until you reach the last treble hole.

2^nd and 3rd Corners - Work 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble,1chain TWICE in the last treble. Working along the opposite side of the foundation row, work 3 treble in the same hole as the first 3 treble group. Chain 1. Repeat 3 treble/1 chain until you reach the last treble/chain corner stitch.

4^th Corner - Work 3 treble, 2 chain, 3 treble, 1 chain. Join to first treble with a sl stitch.

Figure 5 Working the first side of Row 2.

Figure 6 Working the corners

Row 3 – If you are changing colours you should cut yarn and re-start in any chain space. If you are using the same colour, sl st to the first chain space.

Chain 3, 2 treble, chain 1. Continue working 3 tr/1 ch in each chain space of previous row.

Work corners – 3 tr/2ch/3tr/1ch. Join at end with sl st.

Continue working Row 3 for as long as you like, or until the yarn runs out!

Figure 7 Continuing to work around.

Figure 8 How the rectangle looks after foundation row then 3 rows.

And to finish off...here are the patterns for the scarf and cowl!

Fluffy Granny Rectangle Scarf

Materials

2 balls of Naturally Mohair 12ply or equivalent (if you want more colours/rows you will need to adjust number of balls)

5.5mm crochet hook (US Size J)

Tapestry needle for sewing ends.

Finished Measurements

Approx 180cm/74” long, approx. 12cm/5” wide.

Instructions

Using 1^st colour and following tutorial instructions, work foundation row so there are 60 trebles in the row, ending with a ch 3.

Work 2 rounds of rectangle in 1st colour. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Using 2^nd colour, start in any 1ch space, work 3 rows of rectangle. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Using 1^st colour and starting in any 1ch space, ch1, work 1 row of dc (US sc). Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Block if needed.

Naturals Granny Rectangle Cowl

Materials

6 balls of Twilleys Freedom Purity 85% Wool, 15% Alpaca

1 6.5mm (US size crochet hook K)

Tapestry needle for sewing ends.

Finished Measurements

Approx 160cm/65” long, approx. 12cm/5” wide.

Instructions

Using 1st colour and following tutorial instructions, work foundation row so there are 44 trebles in the row, ending with a ch 3.

Work 1 round of rectangle in 1st colour. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Using 2nd colour, start in any 1ch space, work 2 rows of rectangle. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Using 3nd colour, start in any 1ch space, work 2 rows of rectangle. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

Sprinkles Cowl or Hood Free Pattern

2011-05-30T22:17:00.000-07:00

Link to PDF version of pattern is here

Sprinkles as a cowl modelled by Creepy Head Lady!

Sprinkles as a hood

I'm not a fan of longggg scarves...they take too long to make and feel bulky to wear. I wanted something that looked great, was easy to wear and most importantly, easy to knit. This is a super easy cowl design that you can use as a starting point for your own ideas.

This is what I came up with -

I used 3 balls of Filatura di Crosa Fiocchetto and 1 ball of Naturally Loyal 100% pure new wool. The Fiochetto is a "novelty" yarn that I'm happy to expose myself to in small doses, and the Loyal is a basic wool yarn. The techie bits are next -

Filatura di Crosa Fiocchetto

Fiochetto –

Ply: Chunky, 12/14ply

Composition: 66% Viscose, 27% Polyamide, 7% Acrylic

Ball Size: 25g

Length: 35m

Recommended needle size: 6mm

Tension: 14 st to 10cm

Washing instructions: Hand wash, lay flat to dry

Loyal –

Naturally NZ Loyal

DK / 8ply

100% wool

Needle size: 3.25-4mm / US 3-6

Tension: 22sts 30 rows 4"/10cm

Approx 105m / 115yds

Ball size: 50 gram

Washing Instructions: mild machine wash separately, cool iron, dry flat in the shade.

Based on these specs, you could use any similar combination. I used 10mm needles so gauge isn't critical.

So, here's how you make it!

Instructions

Using 10mm needles and 1 strand of each yarn, cast on 36 stitches.

Row 1. Knit

Row 2. Purl

Row 3. K1, *yfwd k2tog*, repeat to last stitch, k1.

Row 4. Purl.

Continue this 4 row pattern until you run out of Fiocchetto! I didn't use all of the Loyal ball, so as long as you choose an 8ply with at least the same meterage you should be fine.

Cast off loosely using only the Loyal.

Fold cowl in half and sew cast on/off rows together. Weave in ends.

And that's it! No blocking is needed. Due to the openness of the pattern stitches, your cowl will fit comfortably as a neck warmer or hood.

Making simple pictures with your knitting

2011-04-28T23:18:00.000-07:00

I was asked recently to do a tutorial showing how to make pictures in knitting. I will admit at this point to not knowing (or having long forgotten!) the name for this kind of knitting. With this in mind I shall call the technique "Simple Picture Knitting"

This style of knitting can be as simple as using knit and purl stitches to produce a kind of silhouette on knitted fabric. There are thousands of patterns on the Internet with a design for every occasion - favourite sports, babies, kitchen motifs, you name it and there is a pattern for it!

There is also the technique known as "Intarsia". This is a type of colourwork where blocks of colours are used to define a picture or pattern. I will be covering this technique in a future post (when I've done some studying to remember how to do this...I haven't touched colourwork much since the awful 80's, when huge splashes of colour competed with shoulder pads for pole position in the knitted jumper world.

So, you've chosen your pattern, have your yarn and needles ready, what next?

The first thing I do is enlarge the pattern chart and print it out. This way I can mark off the rows that I've done so I won't get confuzzled. Motif knitting isn't like fairisle, there is no repeating pattern to memorise. Many patterns have row by row written instructions as well as charts. Which one you choose is entirely up to you. I know there are a lot of people who are scared off by charts, which is one big reason why I'm doing this post.

My example is a square cotton washcloth with a heart design on it. I found it by searching the Ravelry database and linking to the designer's blog. This is a free pattern and the blog has heaps of awesome freebies, as well as a selection of reasonably priced paid patterns. So, go nuts and pick out the pattern of your choice!

The main thing to remember when knitting motifs is that the motif itself is created by simply knitting and purling. If you look at the chart, the red squares are purls on a knit row and knits on a purl row.

I have started by doing a few seed stitch rows as a border. The border continues along both sides of the cloth, and is repeated at the top of the cloth to frame the picture.

Printed out chart and made seed stitch border

As you continue, you will see the pattern emerging..very satisfying! As I mentioned before, all you do is purl the chart stitches on every knit row and knit the chart stitches on every purl row. All of the white stitches are the normal knits and purls.

In progress. I have started highlighting completed rows to keep track

And now for the finished washer! I used Heirloom Cotton 8ply in a deep red shade, 4.00mm needles. I could have gone down a needle size to make the cloth a bit firmer but would have added probably 4 stitches either side of the motif and a few extra rows top and bottom to make up for the slightly smaller finished size.

Overall, I found this type of work easy to do, as long as I kept count of which row I was up to.

A Couple of Patterns and Some Blurb about why I designed them...

2011-04-20T03:18:00.000-07:00

Cable and Lace Wristwarmers and Beanie

Cable and Lace Wristwarmers and Beanie modelled by Moi!

I made this pattern up a year or so ago, after searching for a nice beanie that had an easy pattern and wasn't too hard to decrease. After wasting many metres of wool, I came up with a decent fitting hat that I liked. The wristwarmers were added because I like matching sets :-)

Fast forward to 2011 and my online wool shop has been up and running for a few months. I'm thinking of ways I can engage with my customers and provide something for them that is easy to make and also showcases my products. I'm still learning how to design my own patterns, based on getting an idea for something that I can't find elsewhere, or think would be useful.

When I took out advertising in several knitting magazines, I was asked if I wanted to provide original patterns as part of the overall cost. At first I said NOOOOO I'm not ready for that! But when I looked at some of the things I'd made over the previous year I realised that, yes I can submit some designs!

Lacy Bamboo Scarfette

Lacy Bamboo Scarfette modelled by Scary Head Lady!

So, armed with my (hand-knitted) thinking cap, I came up with a couple more designs that I wanted to fill a gap in my needs. One was a lightweight shortish scarf, as even winter weather here in Perth Australia is mild at worst. Couple that with my absolute hatred of long repetitve projects and the Lacy Bamboo Scarfette was born! It was also a grand way to test and advertise the yarn that I used, firstly Heirloom Bamboo, then, for the magazine version, Heirloom Bamboo Wool. The result is a super nice scarf that I will get loads of use out of, 2 yarns tested for yarn reviews and customer assistance, and a pretty pattern that fits the intended magazine demographic (or so I've been told by the magazine man!)

Of course, the added bonus is that I get to publish my patterns here on my blog for all to see and use if they wish. I just hope the instructions aren't littered with mistakes or are too confusing. One thing that I am pretty passionate about is producing easy to understand patterns, as my designs are targeted at ordinary knitters like myself, who don't have the time or patience to struggle with 36 row lace repeats using thread-like yarns. I used to write process and training documents in a former life and am very aware of the need to make sure all instructions are relevant and concise...I'm a bit rusty at this so if you find anything baffling in my instructions do let me know!

Anyhoo, it's time to upload this post, pick up my knitting again and catch up on some TV before my eyes get the better of me and close despite my best efforts to keep them open!

Happy Knitting and Crocheting!

My Journey Into Simple Knitwear Design

2011-04-17T19:59:00.000-07:00

OK, so I see something I like. Or I have an idea for something. Or (and this is the most common reason!) I’m sick of looking for patterns that don’t fit, or use techniques that I’m not good at, or aren’t quite right...you get the idea!

I like to knit something small using the yarns that I stock at YarnSoft. A hat, scarf or other small item is the perfect way to test my products so I can better advise customers.

So, how do I get an idea from inside my often muddled head to a finished garment?

I do a bit of a sketch. I’m not much of an artist but if I’m looking at doing a patterned fabric I find it helps to draw out a basic pic, even if it looks like a 2 year old did it!

A really dodgy sketch for another hat design!

Step 1 – Knit a gauge/tension swatch. Unless you know exactly what gauge works for you, it really is necessary to do this step. I’ve just made a hat using Naturally Aran Tweed and I find that knitting to the recommended gauge creates too firm a fabric and is uncomfortable for me, seeing as my hands are getting a bit creaky with age. I went up a needle size and am pretty happy with the result. To be absolutely sure you should also wash and block your sample to make sure that using a larger/smaller needle isn’t going to make the fabric go out of shape.

Sketch and gauge swatch.

3 recent hat designs. I did an Excel graph for the tweedy hat (see below)

Excel graph for tweedy fairisle hat

Step 2 – Find the right size pattern. I like making hats but more often than not I can’t get the size right. Once I found the "Hat Wizard" here there was no turning back! It cost a few dollars but has been a godsend for this mathematically challenged knitter! It has a range of basic styles and sizes, and once I have tested my preferred size I know that it will work with any type of yarn.

Before starting on my preferred design, I made a plain hat using the yarn that I wanted to use in the finished piece. This way I knew if it was going to be a good basic fit and could adjust the sizing to make sure the pattern wasn’t going to change the sizing too much. Cables will pull the knitting in a bit, and could make the hat too tight. Lace patterns are quite open and might make the body of the hat too loose.

Some people like a snug fitting hat, others like it longer, slouchier etc. It’s much easier to adjust the fit to suit if you have a live example to work with. I’ve noticed that most of the hats that I make for myself could be a few rows longer so they cover my ears properly. Once I have the basic dimensions I can add the rows and work the pattern panel into the adjusted size.

Once I have the right number of stitches I have to make sure that my chosen stitch pattern will fit. In the case of the lace pattern I used for the Kid Cowl and Beanie, the original pattern was a motif worked over 11 stitches. Multiplying it was easy as the hat pattern has 80 stitches at cast on. It was just a matter of increasing by 8 stitches after the ribbing to accommodate the pattern. If I couldn’t make the repeats fit I could leave a stitch or 2 between each motif but in this case I was able to make it an all over pattern, which I preferred.

Sketching can be useful here, especially if a pattern starts and ends with half a repeat. You do need to make sure each half meets up at the seam (or beginning of the round if working as a seamless hat).

Step 3 – Get knitting!

The basic makeup of the beanie is –

Rib or garter band;
Main pattern panel;
Decrease for top of hat.

I find the decreasing part the hardest one to manage, especially with a lace or cable panel to work around. There are a couple of ways that I get around this.

1 Stop the patterning at the decrease and work the rest of the hat in stocking stitch (or garter if that is the main stitch used).

2 Work at least the first couple of decrease rows into the pattern. With the lace I was able to k2tog a few times evenly across the pattern and it did’nt affect the rest of the motif.

Once I had the basics calculated, it was time to start knitting! My first attempt was pretty good if I do say so myself!

Here it is modelled on Liam who is about 21mths old. It is a comfortable fit and would do a child from his age to around 3, depending on the individual head size. I haven’t done this one in other sizes yet, but I’m pretty sure it won’t be too hard using the hat software and a bit of fiddling on graph paper. I really want a beret style hat for myself, with a short-ish cowl to match. I would love one that wraps around a couple of times, but I’m way too impatient to be knitting something that big!

The cowl was a bit easier, as there are no decreases. You can pretty much make it whatever size you like, and with this pattern, all I would have to do is add or subtract one motif repeat of 11 stitches.

And here is the pattern for the Kid Cowl and Hat – this will be published in an Australian Knitting Magazine later this year...yay me!

Kid Cowl – cos skivvies are sooo not cool!

This cowl will fit a toddler aged approx 1 – 3 years.

Cowl measures 17 inches around unstretched

Materials – Peter Pan DK 1 ball

Tools – 3.25mm circular needle 40cm

4.00mm circular needle 40cm.

You can also divide the stitches across 2 longer circs or dpns.

Terminology

K – knit

P – purl

Sl – slip next stitch onto 2nd needle instead of knitting/purling it

Psso – pass slipped stitch over the stitch just knitted

Yf – yarn forward. Move yarn to front of needle just before doing a knit stitch. The yarn makes a loop that will show up when you knit it on the next row

K2tog – knit 2 stitches at once

Pattern

Cast on 108 stitches.

Work 5 rows 2 x 2 rib.

Work 1 row 2 x 2 rib and increase 3 stitches evenly – 111 stitches.

Change to 4.00mm needles

Start pattern – repeat once for a total of 31 rows.

Row 1 – k1 yf sl1 k1 psso k5 k2tog yf k1, rep to end.

Row 2 and all even rows – knit

Row 3 – k2 yf sl1 k1 psso k3 k2tog yf k2, rep to end.

Row 5 – k3 yf sl1 k1 psso k1 k2tog yf k3, rep to end.

Row 7 – k4, yf sl1 k1 psso yf k4 , rep to end.

Row 9 – k3 k2tog yf k1 sl1 k1 psso k3, rep to end.

Row 11 – k2 k2tog yf k3 yf sl1 k1 psso k2, rep to end.

Row 13 – k1 k2tog yf k5 yf sl1 k1 psso k1, rep to end.

Row 15 – k2tog yf k7 yf sl1 k1 psso, rep to end.

Repeat pattern rows 1 – 15 once, then on the last pattern row decrease 3 stitches evenly.

Change to 3.25mm needles.

Work 6 rows 2 x 2 rib. Cast off. Weave in ends.

Kid Hat

This hat will fit a toddler aged approx 1 – 3 years.

Hat measures 13 inches around unstretched

Materials – Peter Pan DK 1 ball.

Tools – Tools – 3.25mm circular needle 40cm

4.00mm circular needle 40cm.

4.00m dpns for top of hat, or 2nd set of 4.00mm circular needles, for finishing the decreasing at the top of the hat.

Using 3.25mm needles cast on 80 stitches. Join, making sure stitches aren’t twisted.

Work 9 rows 2 x 2 rib.

Work 1 row 2 x 2 rib increasing 8 stitches evenly around – 88 stitches.

Change to 4.00mm needles.

Work lace pattern for 2 repeats.

Decrease hat

The decrease is worked over the first 5 rows of the lace pattern then is worked in stocking stitch to the end.

Row 1 – k1 yf sl1 k1 psso k1 k2tog k2 k2tog yf k1 rep to end.

Row 2 – Knit

Row 3 – k2 yf sl1 k1 psso k1 k2tog k2tog yf k2

Row 4 – Knit

Row 5 – k3 yf sl1 k2tog psso yf k3, rep to end.

Row 6 – Knit

Row 7 – k7 k2tog, rep to end

Row 8 – Knit

Row 9 – k6 k2tog, rep to end

Row 10 – Knit

Row 11 – k5 k2tog, rep to end

Row 12 – k2 tog to end.

Rep row 12 until 12 sts are left.

Cut yarn, leaving enough yarn to secure remaining stitches.

Thread yarn through yarn needle, run needle through remaining stitches and secure.

Weave in ends.

Don't let cable knitting tie you in knots!

2011-02-20T21:06:00.000-08:00

It's no secret that I'm not a fan of endless rows of stocking stitch. Nice to look at but very boring to do. I have a short attention span (a psychiatrist once diagnosed me with adult ADD but that’s another story!). This lack of tolerance for repetitive tasks has lead me to be a bit choosy in what I will knit. This is where cable knitting is a life saver. Apart from giving a garment a pleasing look, cables are very satisfying to work. They transform ordinary fabric into something that you want to touch and admire and the extra bulk adds to the warmth factor. Sure it might take a little more yarn to complete a cabled garment, but since when was that a problem?

The yarn I used in the photo examples is Twilleys Freedom Sincere 100% Organic Cotton, which is available from Yarnsoft. The needles were wood ones that were bought from a large craft chain here in Australia...and they are so yucky to use that I won't be stocking them anytime soon!

YarnSoft carries a good range of knitting and crochet tools. If you don't see what you are looking for on the site, just drop us a line and let us know what you need and we will get it for you.

So, let me answer some questions that I'm often asked about cable knitting.

Do I need to use different needles to make the cables?

Ideally, yes, you will need a cable needle for holding the stitches that are going to be twisted. There are several types of cable needles available, and I would suggest that you try different types to see what you prefer.

Straight cable needles are like very short double pointed needles, or DPN (you can use a dpn if you don't have anything else). I'm not keen on them, as I find the stitches can slide off easily.

Bent cable needles are my favourite. They have a v shaped dip in the middle to keep the stitches safe.

U shaped cable needles are often used as well. I found them a bit fiddly to start with but I’m growing to like them.

Cable needles come in different thicknesses. It's best to buy 2 or 3 different sizes to use on different weights of yarns. They are made from the same materials as knitting needles, so again, choose what you prefer.

I bet you didn't think there was so much to say about this little gadget, did you?

3 of the most common types of cable needle - Bent, hook and straight.

How on earth do you get the stitches to twist without ending up with a tangled mess?

Worry not! It's easier than it looks! Cable patterns are usually set up as an even number of knit stitches with panels of purl fabric on either side. The purl fabric allows the knitted cable to stand out and not be lost amongst the other stitches. The cable panel is worked in 2 parts, knitting the stitches from the main needle and knitting the stitches from the cable needle.

The terminology for cable stitches is written as letters and numbers, for example, C8F or C8B, depending on which way the cable slants. In this example, the cable panel is 8 stitches wide and the twist is worked on 4 of those stitches. In the case of C8F the process is -

C8F - place 4 stitches onto cable needle and hold at the front of the work

Knit next 4 stitches

Knit 4 stitches from cable needle.

Just a bunch of knits and purls minding their own business...


4 stitches have been placed on the cable needle and are waiting while I knit the next 4 stitches from my working needle.

Now I am knitting the 4 stitches that I placed on the cable needle. You can see the previous 4 stitches to the right looking a bit squished!

The cable has landed! It still looks a bit like a mistake but wait...there's more!

Hmm did I do 6 or rows 7 between the cables? Let's check...ah yes, 7 is correct!

OK now it's starting to look like cable knitting - Hooray!!

The process for cabling behind is exactly the same as cabling forward. You just place the cable stitches behind the main work instead of in front.

C8B - place 4 stitches onto cable needle and hold at the back of the work

Knit next 4 stitches

Knit 4 stitches from cable needle.

I won’t pretend cabling is easy for the first few times, but once you get the hang of seeing an extra needle sticking out from your work, you'll be fine!

There are hundreds of cable stitch patterns and combinations. Once you have practised the technique there isn't a cable stitch that you can't master.

I’ve lost my place in the pattern and don’t know where the next cable needs to be!

This can be a bit tricky. You can sometimes get away with working a cable one row out but it’s best not to make a habit of it! There are a couple of ways to prevent losing your place.

The humble row counter – Obvious isn’t it? For example, if your cable pattern is worked over 8 rows, just set your row counter at 1, add 1 count for each row, then reset after row 8 and so on. You can also just use a pen and paper and cross off rows as you go.

The row counter is a wonderful tool…If you remember to twirl it after every row. I’ve forgotten how many times I’ve looked at the counter and wondered if I’d changed the number at the beginning or the end of the row. Same thing with the paper and pen. There are going to be times when you just forget, and get confused trying to count rows that are twisted around each other.

One method of counting rows between cables is to poke your cable needle right above where the last twist was done. Count every row above the needle and if you get to 7 on an 8 row pattern (you do this on the right side of your work) then you know that the next row is the cable (row 8 stitches are laying in wait on the needle).

Another method is to place a ruler across the top of the previous twist and carefully count the rows. Some cables are small enough for you to use your judgement to see how many rows you have worked.

Whatever method you use, practice makes perfect (or in my case, good enough!)

I’m doing a cable jumper but the cables just look like a jumbled mess!

This could be due to a couple of reasons. Have you inadvertently worked some cables the wrong way round? If you have done this, you “can” fix it by pulling back the affected cables and re-working just those stitches. This is a tricky maneuver and not for the faint of heart! I have tried this technique once (on a live garment no less) and let’s just say I failed miserably. I’ve since read a better description of the technique and will post it as soon as I have mastered it on a test swatch. If you just can’t live with the mistake (s) you will have to frog back to just before you made the mistake and do it all over again….sorry!

The other reason could simply be your choice of yarn. Not every yarn type is cable friendly. The best yarns for cabling are solid, firm, smooth yarns, like pure wool, acrylic or any blend that doesn’t contain fancy bits, like boucle or large bumps. Some variegated yarns don’t lend themselves well to cables either. These yarns are best kept for plain stitches or some laces, so the colour changes can complement the pattern and not fight with it.

I added cables to a favourite plain jumper pattern and now it’s too small!

Cables do change the size of a garment. This is because the twisting pulls the yarn in and makes the finished garment narrower than a plain knit garment. If you want to add cables to a simple pattern, consider making the next size up. Check to make sure the sleeves and lengths aren’t going to be too big and adjust length accordingly. The main problem with doing this will be the depth between the armhole shaping and shoulders, as you need to maintain the correct stitch decreases.

If you’re not adept at altering patterns, I would suggest you search for a pattern that includes cables, rather than just adding them without considering the change in fit that could result.

If you have other cable questions, feel free to leave me a comment. Also, do let me know how you are going with cables…they really do make a plain garment look amazing!

Is lace knitting really so scary?

2011-01-26T20:08:00.000-08:00

I used to think so. I still back away slowly from some of the more intricate designs but I'm not nearly as scared of lace as I used to be.

I remember when lace was mainly used for intricate baby garments and shawls. Womens' shawls didn't do it for me. They were for little old ladies not young things like me! Most patterns used very fine yarn (1 or 2 ply) and the needles were often tiny, as small as size 0. With this treacherous combination I can see why many baby clothes were knitted as family heirlooms!

Nowadays, lace is so much more. You hardly ever see knitting pattern books devoted to matinee jackets and layettes these days. Baby garments combine lace with chunky yarns in all the colours of the rainbow. Lace garments for women have evolved from your grannie's wrap to an essential fashion accessory, with designs and yarn choices like never before. All weights of yarn are suitable and many patterns use large gauge needles to accentuate the lacy effect. And once you get started, you will realise that just because it is a lace pattern, the technique is not that hard and the end result looks like you've slaved for months to produce it! We really have nothing to fear from lace knitting....have we??

Let's have a think about what scares people the most about lace and what to look for in a first lace experience.

Hundreds of stitches! How will I keep track of them all?

Don't! Why not start with a scarfette or stole, which is rectangular and has no increases? A narrow scarf with a couple of pattern repeats is a great way to start. And don't forget the humble washcloth, headband or bookmark as a starter project. There are thousands of patterns available to use as a test and the best thing is you get to use your test swatch.

If you're still keen after attempting a small item, you might like to try a triangular shawl. Same technique but there will be regular increases.

My teeny tiny test swatch

I'll get lost amongst all the holes and k2togs!

This can be a bit scary to start with, but again, if you choose a simple pattern it will be easier to get used to. Lace knitting is based on a repeating, symmetrical pattern. Once you've completed a few rows you will start to see how the shape is developing and can predict what comes next. You'll see quite quickly that a yarn over is evened out by a knit 2 together. The stitch count won't change but the appearance of the pattern will change to reflect the different stitches.

Look for a pattern where the lace work is only done on right side rows. The wrong side will be all purl/plain stitch with maybe a 3 or 4 stitch plain stitch border.

It's starting to look like a pattern is forming (I worked a few stocking stitch rows to get started)

Yarn forward yfwd (also known as Yarn over yo) just before knitting or slipping the next stitch

yfwd, slip 1, knit 2 together

yfwd, slip one purlwise (the same way as you start to work a purl stitch)

I've made a mistake and don't know how to fix it!

There are 2 things you can do here. The first thing is to insert a "lifeline". A lifeline is a length of waste yarn threaded across a row of stitches that hold them if you have to rip your work back to fix a mistake. Thread a wool needle with a length of smooth yarn and run it through the stitches on your needle. This is easier than trying to insert a lifeline several rows down. If you make a mistake and don't notice it straight away you can unravel your knitting until you get to the lifeline row. The stitches can't unravel anymore so it is easy to pick up the row and fix your mistake. Just be careful not to knit the lifeline into the real stitch!

The start of a lifeline. Just thread through the base of the stitches on the needle

The second thing is to use stitch markers to separate each pattern repeat. If your lace pattern is a repeat of say, 12 stitches, place a stitch marker at the beginning and end of each repeat. If you are really nervous you can count each repeat as you go. I'm sure you'll find that you will end up removing the markers after a few pattern repeats, as you will get to know the pattern and how it works.

I'm scared my stitches will drop off the needle!

My top tip for this is to use a needle that has some "grip". I do love my Addi Clicks. They are smooth and shiny (and circular, my favourite!) BUT...they are so smooth that the stitches slip about when I am trying to knit them. Add a few yarn over loopy bits and you can guess the rest! Circulars are fine, as well as straights, but I would choose something like brushed metal, bamboo or wood needles for lace. The slight friction as you knit works with you not against you like it would with a bulkier yarn, to keep the stitches stable. As most lace these days is worked with fine yarn and thick needles, you do need to have some control, as the lace will be fairly loose, no matter if you are a loose or tight knitter.

I've forgotten where I'm up to!

This happens to even the most hardened of lace knitters. I photocopy the pattern (I hate writing on the original) and jot down the next row that I'm going to knit. Sometimes you can see straight away where you are but why tempt fate?

Where are the instructions? All I can find is a graph with funny symbols all over it!

Some people are readers, others are lookers. I used to prefer a writtten pattern but I can cope with graphs now if I have to! As long as they aren't covered with a million symbols I'm OK. Lace patterns lend themselves well to graphs, as you can see what goes where. If you are really scared of graphs, look for patterns that include both written and graphic steps.

It looks all funny, not like lace at all!

Like it or not, lace will need to be blocked before wearing. Blocking really isn't hard, it just adds a few hours to the grand unveiling of your latest creation. Be sure to check the ball band for washing instructions, as some yarns mustn't be ironed or machine washed. At the very least, you will need to wet down your work, squeeze out any excess water, then lay the item flat on a towel or folded sheet (gingham material is great as it has a built in grid) and use lots of long, rustproof pins to get your shawl into shape. Don't be shy here. You want the yarn to relax and sit well so a little manipulation to get those lacy panels looking right is really worth it.

How do I wear it?

Lace shawls and stoles can be worn with pretty much anything (well, I wouldn't wear a stole over sweaty running gear, but each to her own!). A lovely shawl or stole can make the simplest outfit look stunning, so why not team it with a basic black or white top? If I'm wearing a multi-coloured lace item I would wear a solid colour garment and for a solid colour lace item I can usually jazz up my outfit a bit. My main criteria is that I have put such a lot of work and care into the lace I want it to be the star!

Don't forget a nice shawl pin. Etsy have thousands of examples, from simple wooden pins to elaborate wirework ones. You can even crochet a flower and attach a brooch pin to the back, or raid your grandma's jewellery box for a vintage number.

My current lace project is the Fairy Leaves Stole by the Yarn Floozies. I didn't use the pooling technique but chose Naturally Waikiwi, which is a merino nylon possum blend sockweight yarn. Lovely to knit with and will be yummy to wear!


Fairy Leaves Stole made with Naturally Waikiwi

Here's one I prepared earlier! This was my first attempt at a lace stole. It is knitted from this Fibretrends pattern and uses Heirloom Pixie. It was so easy to do that I could pick it up after a week and know where I was up to, and even though I made a few little mistakes you would have to study the whole 5 1/2 half feet of it pretty closely to see them! Lace heaven if you ask me!

Easy Lace Wrap by Fibretrends knitted in Heirloom Pixie 4ply and 5.00mm needles

Some tips that have saved my sorry knitting wotsit!

2011-01-04T21:47:00.000-08:00

Although I've been knitting and crocheting for around 40 years, I wouldn't call myself an expert knitter. Maybe I'm being too harsh on myself but I have to admit I still find myself making silly mistakes when I would have thought I was way beyond that sort of thing.

Over the years, I've developed a bag of tricks that has saved me from many a knitting or crocheting disaster. Looking back, I can see that I actually have become a skilled knitter, if a little lazy! I've come to accept the odd mistake as a badge. After all, if I wanted everything to look manufactured I wouldn't bother to knit would I?!

So here are some of the things that I've relied upon for all these years to dig me out of whatever yarny hole I find myself in!

Frogging - pulling knitting back to just before the mistake was made. I did this just this morning. I am currently making a jumper for my grandson Connor, and am doing the sleeves. The pattern is written for flat knitting but as I hate (and I do not use the word hate lightly!) seaming, I knitted the front and back in one piece. When I was nearly up to the armholes, I realised I had cast on more stitches for the back than the front. Grrrr. I "fixed" this by knitting a couple of stitches together while casting off for the armholes and am fairly confident any unevenness won't be noticed. They are my favourite mistakes - the ones that look like they were meant to be there!


If you look closely you can see the side panels are slightly different widths

Now I'm doing the first sleeve in the round as well, until I reach the shaping. I mis-read the pattern which said increase on the 7th and every following fourth row until the increasing is done. Well, first of all I increased on the first row (old habits die hard) then every 4th row as instructed but found that the increases were finished about 2 inches up the sleeve. Now that didn't sound or look right to me, so I put the sleeve back into my knitting bag for a couple of days, hoping that I would decide this was OK. Alas, it was not OK. I dithered about, not wanting to pick it up, but wanting it finished anyway, until I bit the bullet this morning and pulled back the sleeve to the ribbing.

This time I am increasing on the 7th, 4th, 7th etc rows until I get the right number of increases. Even now I'm not convinced that this was correct but that is how I've interpreted the pattern. I know that patterns can't be too long and wordy, but I do really like the ones that spell it out row by row...I wonder why?!

In case you are wondering, here is the actual text of the sleeve increases -

Excerpt from Peter Pan Jeanie Bk 341

And of course, I've just re-read the instructions for the first size (not the one that I'm doing) and it says, inc 1st then every 10th row. This means that I am doing it wrong AGAIN!!! Oh well, it should still be fine...shouldn't it?? Postscript - I've just checked the Blog preview and realised I should have increased every 8th row not every 4th........now where is the "smash head against keyboard to continue" button??!!

What does all this rambling have to do with handy tips? I'll tell you what - READ the pattern BEFORE you cast on! Get the design into your head first so the instructions are logical. Don't start something then have to give up when it gets complicated by a new stitch or technique that you are having trouble mastering. I shall call this Tip number 1.

Tip Number 2 - Use stitch markers. When you are knitting lace or anything that has panels of stitch patterns, stitch markers can make the difference between pulling back a few stitches to pulling back entire rows....no fun when you are knitting cables or lace. Markers are pretty much essential for circular knitting too. You must know where the beginning of a row is. You can use all sorts of things as markers, from pieces of scrap yarn tied around the needle, to beautiful handmade beaded markers.

Tip number 3 - If you are tackling a new stitch pattern consider doing a test swatch first. Tension (gauge) swatches are a common task when knitting with a new yarn or needle size that is different to your normal one. I'm trying to design a knitted messenger bag using cable stitch panels and I'm finding it easier to knit the panels out of cheap yarn first to make sure I have the pattern correct. Once I've done this, I'll be much more in tune with the design and hopefully won't make too many mistakes. (This relates to Tip 1)

There are hundreds of handy tips and hints to help make your knitting life a little easier and the ones I've listed are only a few of my faves. If you have a favourite, why not let me know by adding your comment?

How has this year treated you?

2010-12-07T06:27:00.000-08:00

2010 has been kinder to me than some of those previous. The last few years have been pretty tough, culminating in a near breakdown over workplace stress. Without saying too much about it, if you feel you are being treated badly in the workplace (or anywhere for that matter) DON'T just put up with it. Look at the situation like an outsider and if you find yourself saying "this isn't right" then it probably isn't. My experiences lead to me having to sell my home and leave most of my family to move 3000 miles away. It was either that or a complete breakdown, something I didn't fully comprehend until I was able to reflect on it on the other side of the country. During the whole thing, my employers did everything they could (including sending me for psychiatric evaluations!) to determine that they were not at fault. Looking back, I now see that when you raise the issue of workplace harassment, you are opening a huge, ugly can of worms, and the support tree that you were told was there for you, was just a few twigs that fell off the dead branch every time you reached for them.

One thing that helped me make it through this awful time was without doubt the support of my children. Whilst they didn't want me to leave them behind, they knew that it was either me or my sanity! They are all adults (just!) and I'm happy to say they are all independent, smart and employed and we are extremely close, and I'll treasure that for ever. I miss them like crazy, especially 4 of my grandchildren, but we keep in contact as possible by phone and computer. Not the same but you do what you have to do.

Grandchild 5 Clover Jane born June 10 weighing 11lb 6oz!

Grandchild 3 Crazy man Connor

Grandchildren 2, 1 and 4 Claire, Zoe and Liam

So now I live my daughter and her 16 month old son in Perth, Western Australia. We are planning to buy a house in the next 2 years with her twin sister, who is moving here next year. Exciting times ahead!

2010 was the year that I started my business YarnSoft, after studying business under a government funded program. It has been a dream of mine for a long time to run my own show and what better way than to open a yarn shop? I originally wanted to open a "real" shop, but the logistics and money involved proved too daunting a task for now. I may revisit this idea in the future but want to spend time building up the online business first. In some ways online is more difficult than B&M, especially when you are trying to reach a large audience that can't touch your product, and we all know how touchy feely yarn is! But I believe the benefits outweigh the problems and even in this short time I've learned so much and connected with some lovely people, so that alone has made it worthwhile.

So, what is planned for 2011? I want to keep improving and increasing my range and make YarnSoft the place for knitters and crocheters to visit to not only buy yarn, but to enjoy learning more about the crafts and share in the vast amount of knowledge and enthusiasm out there. I have a soft spot for beginning knitters and crocheters and will be providing a range of video tutorials where the learner can see a technique explained and demonstrated in an easy to follow way. I know there are thousands of YouTube videos out there but mine will actually take the time to let you see each movement slowly, so you can follow bit by bit and not get lost when the teacher gets carried away and knits like a demon while you are still trying not to drop your needles!

I would love to know what has marked 2010 as a great/not so great year for you.

What makes a great knitter?

2010-11-27T18:35:00.000-08:00

I used to attend a craft group at a local church. One day I was taking a break from knitting and sitting with the cross stitchers. This particular table had a self elected “leader” who made sure we all knew her opinions about this craft. Her big “thing” was the state of the back of our projects. In her opinion, the back must look as neat as the front. Well....if I could have super glued my project to my lap I would have! In hindsight, my work wasn't overly untidy as I did make sure to snip threads and to sew ends in instead of knotting, but the way she was going on made me feel like I just wasn't good enough. Needless to say, the next week I scurried back to the safety of the knitting group!

When I look at sites like Ravelry I am amazed at the awesome talent in the knitting and crochet world. As I gaze longingly at the lacy shawls, complex arans and beautifully crafted socks, to name but a few, I sometimes get a sinking feeling in my stomach that says “you could never do that”.

Why on earth not? What makes one knitter better or more competent than the next? Obviously there are a myriad of reasons, but I would like to demystify some of the hype about what makes a great knitter.

Firstly, do you love knitting, no matter what skill level you are currently at? If your answer is yes, then in my opinion you are a great knitter! By the way, feel free to substitute crocheter whenever you like. I love both crafts and struggle with some of the concepts in both areas so you are not alone.

Secondly, do you feel bad if you only use cheaper yarns/straight needles/patterns published by large yarn companies? Don’t fall for this one! As long as you enjoy what you do and are proud of your creations, you can use whatever yarns and tools you like! Yes, I will admit there is a lot of support for boutique designs and hand spun/hand painted yarns these days. This can only be a good thing, as it keeps the knitting world evolving and interesting, but that surely doesn’t exclude the knitter who loves making granny square rugs out of acrylics, or sticks to what she or he knows works.
I've added some picks here of 3 pairs of socks that I wear a lot and that all have built in "issues". The first pair, apart from being a bit big, have been hiding a dropped stitch which I only noticed today!

Heirloom Jigsaw socks that were a bit big but still fit nicely inside my winter boots

Wendy Happy socks that could have been a bit tighter

Naturally Waikiwi socks that strangely turned out different lengths!

Lastly, are you willing to keep trying until you fix the mistake/learn the new stitch or technique? Then you are a great knitter. Don’t think for one moment that prize winning garments were created without mistakes being made along the way. You can be sure where there are knitted rows there will be some hair pulling and swearing. Just because you don’t admit to it doesn’t mean it doesn’t happen!

Christmas is coming!

2010-11-27T03:46:00.000-08:00

And are we all prepared....nope! My Christmas gift giving will be mostly achieved by post, as 3 children and 4 grandchildren live in Canberra which is about 3000 miles from me in Perth. I live with my daughter and her 16 month old son Liam so we will be having a quiet Christmas day at the beach with Liam's aunt and her brood. Ya gotta love summer Christmases!

So, what to make for christmas presents that is quick and easy?

Dish or washcloths come to mind. These little cloths are an awesome way to test out new yarns and stitch patterns. Once you have a couple of standard patterns in your box of tricks, they can be whipped up in an hour or so and matched with some lovely handmade soap for a gift for a teacher, daycare leader, workmate or anyone you can think of who would appreciate a small gift. Knit up a small stash and you will never be short of a last minute present.

Leaf Lace Washcloth

The best yarn to use for cloths is cotton, bamboo or a cotton/acrylic mix. These dry quickly and can be thrown in the wash or soaked in a mild bleach solution to clean. They may fade over time but as they are a working cloth, we can forgive that! I have cotton washcloths that I have been using for over a year and they are still doing their job, as long as I am there to direct them!

Some yarn suggestions - Heirloom Cotton, Heirloom Bamboo, Twilleys Freedom Sincere, Wendy Sorrento.

Here are some handy links to free washcloth patterns -

Knitting Pattern Central - pages and pages of free patterns for almost anything you can imagine! Their sister site Crochet Pattern Central is another mine of information.

Ravelry - This is probably the largest knitting and crocheting resource in the world. Although you need to be a member to use and view the site, joining is free. Once you're in, you might never want to leave!

Knitting on the Net - another free site that includes a brief description of each design.

Dish and Wash Cloth Mania - a blog dedicated to this noble pursuit!

Washcloths and dishcloths are fairly forgiving so you don't have to use the recommended yarn if it isn't available where you are.

Other gift ideas are socks, shawls, toys, gloves, hats and scarves. Socks and shawls can be quick and easy or intricate. You can choose to make a simple design using a self-patterning yarn which does all the work for you, or go all out and use a luxury yarn for a special gift.

Scarves and cowls are hugely popular gifts. A small scarf like this design from Tikki's blog takes a couple of hours and is a great stash buster. I made mine from Naturally Aran Tweed (I did say in a previous post that I was going to use Filatura di Crosa Lovely Jeans but picked up the Aran Tweed instead!)

Paula's Scarfette Naturally Aran Tweed

Some lovely sock yarns from our shop are -

Wendy Happy - A 4ply blend of soft bamboo and nylon, great for warm weather as the bamboo has antibacterial properties to help keep your feet sweet;
Heirloom Jigsaw - A 4ply self-patterning wool/nylon blend that is hard wearing and looks great;
Naturally Waikiwi - A super soft 4ply blend of Merino wool, nylon, alpaca and possum make for a very special gift.
Twilleys Freedom Gorgeous - 8ply bamboo/nylon blend, again wonderfully soft to work with.

Crochet Amigurumi Tiger

Toys are another popular gift item. Amugurumi, which originated in Japan, is the art of making small, crocheted (they can also be knitted but crochet is more prevalant) whimsical toys. Some of them remind me of the manga style of cartooning, where heads and facial features are exagerrated. There is a great tutorial here The best yarn to use for toys (in my opinion) is a basic wool or acrylic. These yarns are hard wearing, easy to use and buy, and come in a huge range of colours. Some of my favourites are -

Naturally Loyal - 8ply 100% wool which is soft and easy to work with;
Heirloom Dazzle - 8ply 100% acrylic in a large range of plain and variegated colours;
Heirloom Easycare - A 100% wool crepe which is ideal for toy making.

Filatura di Crosa Solo 1 Minuto Scarf in Boysenberry

If I was in a real hurry I wouldn't even knit! I'd just give people a no knit scarf that they can make themselves. A brand new one that has just arrived in Australia is Filatura di Crosa Ci Piace and Solo 1 Minuto. Each 6m hank of soft squishy furry yarn can be made into a lovely narrow scarf (keep an eye out for narrow scarves as they are the next big thing). You can mix and match colours and even plait them as a variation.

Filatura di Crosa Ci Piace Scarf in Hot Chocolate

Anatomy of a Knitting Disaster

2010-11-23T23:16:00.000-08:00

My latest blog is supposed to be about what makes a great knitter. Instead, it has turned into a tale of woe...you know the thing..."when good projects go bad".

It all started well enough. I signed up for a Mystery KAL (Knit-a-long), which for those who aren't familiar, is a pattern that is released to the knitters in stages. The design becomes apparent as you progress with the steps. The design was a boy's or unisex jumper (I assumed it was a top of some sort). I had chosen Wendy Sorrento, a lovely soft cotton/acrylic mix from my store, in a mid blue colourway.

So I was off to a good start until I realised that I had done one of the cables incorrectly and hadn't increased enough stitches along the way. No matter I thought, the cable snafu doesn't look obvious and I can fix the stitch numbers when I separate the arm stitches. So far so good.

A scrunched up look at progress

I duly placed arm stitches on waste yarn to finish later, joined front to back with a tight knit stitch (not tight enough but again, could be fixed later) and continued to follow the pattern.

Then....the inevitable happened....I managed to cock up another cable and now it really WAS obvious...Grrrr. I toyed with the idea of frogging back but I’d read on the KAL forum in Ravelry that you could actually just frog the affected section, leaving the good stuff untouched. Apparently Yarn Harlot explained this technique in glorious colour on her blog.

Wow! I thought, somewhat naively in hindsight. I can do this! So, while the grandbaby was in daycare, which was about the only good decision I’d made so far, I proceeded to rip out the cable rows in preparation for the great cable rescue.

Cable unpicked and looking scary

Looks messy doesn’t it? I wish I could say it got better...but it didn’t. A few failed attempts and tangled needle cords later, I decided to cut my losses and frog back a few rows instead.
This I duly did. I then started to re-do the cable and...wait for it....read the pattern wrongly and did yet another bodgy cable! Another frog later, a bit further back this time, a double check of the pattern and I was raring to go.

That's it! I'm starting all over again!

Yep you guessed it! Yet another error and I was done. Time to reboot the jumper! So, I’ve just cast on and have put it in a safe place (safe from me anyway!) until I have the strength to have another go...*sigh*

I love freebies!

2010-11-15T20:25:00.000-08:00

Let's face it – we all want to be able to buy all the yarn and patterns that's on offer out there. It's just not possible though is it? OK, so I am in the enviable situation of owning my own yarn shop, so I am surrounded by loads of gorgeous yarns and designs every day! Even so, I had to spend money on it, and I am well aware of how hard it is these days to feed your obsession at the same time as juggling mortgages and bills.

So, what's a girl to do? The answer is – drum roll – search the net for free stuff! Now I don't mean the free things that come at a price (signing up for some bogus offer that just fills your inbox with spam). I'm talking about free knitting and crochet resources that make the crafter's life just that little bit easier.

I admire independent designers for not only their talent (and I wish I'd inherited some design talent from somewhere), but also their drive and passion to produce their designs at their own expense, often with little or no financial reward. This is one reason why I rank knitwear designers as artists, in the same way that painters and sculptors, to name but two, are recognised.

In a future blog I will be presenting interviews with some of my favourite independents, to say thank you to them for their inspiration and talent. But for now, let me show you a few of the patterns that I am working on to show off these wonderful people, but also to show you how you can use the beautiful fibres from YarnSoft to compliment these designs.

Tikki aka Georgie's Blog is a showcase for her amazing childrens' designs. Her motto is "Simple, Seamless Knitting Patterns" and her colourful designs are well known for being easy to make and look awesome on kidlets. I've completed one of her designs, Eden, for my Grandson, Liam. I used Twilleys Freedom Sincere, which is a 100% organic cotton that is machine washable. I must mention though, this was not a free pattern, but I did want to show off some of Georgie's designs (and put up a pic of one of the golden grandchildren!) And please don't ask me why he is on his side...I tried and tried to get Blogger to insert the pic right way up but it wouldn't play nice :-(

I'm about to start another Tikki design, this time it's a free pattern, Sid's Beanie. I'm going to use Naturally Loyal, Lt Blue and Blue Print, which is an 8ply 100% wool. I'll post a pic when it's finished. I'll try to get Liam to be my model but he usually whips hats off as soon as they are put on him so I might get his mum Lou to be the camera person!

Other freebies on my list are –
Paula's scarfette. Another Tikki design. I'm going to use Filatura di Crosa Lovely Jeans, 100% worsted weight cotton

PersnicketyKnitter – ZigZag Lace Scarf. Tahki Rio, a chunky alpaca, merino, silk blend.

Hey Julie – Baby Cabled Hat. Filatura di Crosa Zara Plus, worsted/12ply 100 % extrafine merino wool.

Well, if I'm going to get these things knitted, I'd better get to it!

Until next time, happy creating!

What is in your knitting toolbox?

2010-11-12T07:33:00.000-08:00

As you gain more experience with your knitting, you'll find that just needles and yarn aren't enough. Everyone has their favourite tools and accessories and I am no exception. Here is a bit of a look inside my knitting toolbox (Actually it's more of a knitting tub, with sub-branches in my desk drawer, current project bag, under the couch, tangled in bedsheets etc!

So, just what is in the box?

Knitting needles – goes without saying! I do love to try different types of needles and I must say my favourites are circular needles. I haven’t used straight needles for years and my collection is stashed away in a storage shed. Having said that, if you are happy with your needle choice then stick with it, until you get the urge to play with something different. I will add at this point though, that I really don’t like plastic needles. Don’t know why, I just don’t!

Non twisty circular needles

In my collection I have some old circulars that I bought back in the 80’s I think. They are the English Milward brand and have stood up to numerous outings over the years. Like most early versions, these needles have very twisty cords and need to be soaked in warm water every now and then to relax the cord. Most modern needles have soft cords with less “memory’ so they don’t get twisted up when you use them. I have a set each of KnitPro and Addi interchangeable as well. They have proved super handy to have around, as I can change the needle tip and cord length to suit almost every project I want to do.

Twisty Circular Needles need pre-soaking to soften the cable

If I had to guess the number one reason that some people back away when offered a pair of circular, the twisty cord syndrome would probably be the answer. The other reason could be that you hold circulars in a slightly different way to straights, causing the weight of the knitted item to be distributed differently. Personally I find circulars more comfortable to use and don’t get that annoying poke in the chest that can happen with straights. I can also knit on public transport without attacking my neighbour. It is also easier to store your project in a smaller bag, as the needles pretty much fold up.

Crochet Hooks – Again, I have a selection of hooks, including some very old lace hooks (I went through a doiley phase some years back and I have kept them for the next dabble), bamboo and hooks with comfort grip handles, which for some reason I find more annoying than comforting, but there you go.

Even if you are a non-crocheter, I would suggest that you keep a couple of hooks in your toolbox. They are the best thing for picking up dropped stitches that you only notice a couple of rows down. If I’m faced with the choice of pulling back my knitting to rescue the stitch, or taking a minute or so to bring the errant stitch back home row by row using a small gauge crochet hook, I know which option I’d choose!

Stitch markers – I have a fairly short attention span these days (it must be some strange medical condition, because I am NOT getting old, OK?!) I’ve recently decided to get back into some lace knitting, nothing complicated, just a simple 12 row pattern for a soft wrap. It can take me a couple of repeats to get the flow of the pattern and be able to see what goes where, so until then, I slide on stitch markers at various points to help me remember.

Fibretrends Easy Lace Wrap knit using Heirloom Pixie 4ply

I also love knitting top down garments and use them to divide the different parts of the garment. And of course, as I prefer circular knitting these days to straights (I think I’m allergic to seaming) I use a marker to tell me where the row starts. There are plenty of different type of stitch markers available, from simple plastic washers to elaborate hand beaded ones. If desperate, don’t dismiss the humble safety pin, which is just slid over the needle when needed.

Needle Gauge – These are especially good to use with circular needles. Some brands don’t have the size printed on the needle tips so it’s essential to check the size. Some gauges also have a small ruler printed on them so they can be used if you don’t have a tape measure.

Tape measure – Another essential. Even if a pattern says to knit a number of pattern repeats instead of giving a length, yarns can differ in gauge and drape. If you don’t measure as you go, you might end up wearing a cropped top instead of the tunic you thought you were making!

Well, that’s just the essentials covered. I also have sewing needles, long pins, scissors, spare yarn, stitch holders and a bunch of other stuff. But the items I’ve listed are ones that I just can’t live without.

I wonder what is on your “don’t leave home without it” list of tools?

How do you learn new techniques and try out different yarns?

2010-10-26T18:31:00.000-07:00

Have you ever fallen in love with a pattern but are scared because you've never done that stitch or garment type before?

There's nothing worse than buying a beautiful yarn only to discover that the pattern was too hard. I know you can add the yarn to your stash but that's like admitting defeat!

When I want to try something new, or learn a new stitch or technique, I use some cheap stash, usually acrylic in the same ply to make a dishcloth sized piece. If the pattern is harder than I thought, it's no trouble to rip out a small square of around 40 stitches and start again. If it works out I have another small item to add to my collection.

Once I've learned the stitch I read the pattern through several times to visualise the process. Then I knit a tension (gauge) swatch. This part is VERY important! Even if you are a consistent knitter, a new type of yarn could mean your tension is out by 1 or 2 stitches per 10cms. This might not mean much in the smaller swatch, but multiplied over the total finished size of a garment, could mean a difference of one or more sizes.

So, how do you work a tension swatch? First of all, arm yourself with 1 ball of the desired yarn and the recommended needles. There can be a bit of a difference in tension if you use circular or double pointed needles instead of straight, but I've been using circulars for many years now for both flat and tubular knitting and haven't encountered any problems with tension.

Most gauge information on a yarn ball band are for a 10cm x 10cm sample. In the US, gauge is measured over a 4” square. It's pretty much the same either way.

Cast on the number of stitches specified for the tension, eg, 22sts to 10cm. Add a few more stitches so you have room to measure. I usually cast on 30 stitches.

Knit the square using whatever stitch is recommended in the pattern, eg, stocking stitch, garter (plain) or the main pattern, then cast off.

Now the next bit depends on your way of thinking. Some people just pin and count straight away (I'm one of these people!). Some wash and block their sample before measuring – a more reliable way to prove the gauge. I personally only do it for a very special project or expensive yarn, but again, it's your choice. Some people let the swatch “rest” on a flat surface for a few hours. Whatever way you choose, it doesn't hurt to try an alternative method every now and again, especially if you are a fairly new knitter who is getting used to the stitch-making process.

To check your tension, measure out 10cms across the swatch. Use long pins to mark the beginning and end. Count how many stitches are between the pins. If there are exactly the number recommended Yippee!! You can go ahead and cast on.

If your tension is 1 stitch out, rework the square using needles up or down one size. If you have too few stitches per 10cm change the needle to the next size down. Too many stitches? Use the next size up. It's never a good idea to use needles 3 or 4 sizes different though, as this can affect how the yarn drapes and behaves. Too tight tension may make the garment stiff and uncomfortable, and too loose may result in a garment that stretches and loses its shape over time.

If I'm having trouble getting the tension right and am at risk of being up to 10 stitches out on the finished item, I consider making the next size up or down. This way I can keep using the recommended needles and will still get a good fit. If you do this be sure to check finished measurements to make sure length etc are still what you want. You can always knit to your required length if you have calculated correctly.

The Joys of Vintage Knitting

2010-10-19T07:48:00.000-07:00

I was recently the lucky recipient of a pile of old knitting patterns. When I say old, I mean 1940s to about 1982. I've had a ball looking through them and imagining how I could adapt some of these patterns to today's modern yarns.

2ply Lace Shawl New Idea Knitting Supplement 1960s

Looking through these patterns got me thinking – what has changed since, say, the 1950s, when hand knitting was a normal household pursuit, rather than the hobby that it is today? Have mass produced garments replaced the appeal of a hand made individual garment, or have the age old skills died out to the point where making your own garments isn't even considered?

Eve Lyn Baby Set 1949

Let's take baby clothes for an example. Back in the day (choose your favourite time period), women mostly were stay at home wives and mothers. They hand washed most of their laundry, and there wasn't the range of fashions changing every season to choose from. When a new baby was announced, a small army of family members would take up the tools and knit pretty much everything the baby would need for the first few months at least. These garments would be handed down as heirlooms. Of course there were always jumpers and cardigans for older children, lovingly knitted by grandma and given as Christmas presents (Thanks Gran! This is so much better than Lego!)

Ladie's 2 piece suit Patons Baldwin No. 129

The bit that gets me is the time it took to knit back in the day. Yarns were generally a fine 2 or 3ply and needles were either straight or double pointed. None of your 2 socks on 2 circulars jiggery-pokery. Combine this with an often complicated lace pattern and it's a wonder anyone got their dinner on time! Several of the patterns are for baby shawls – cast on 400 or so stitches then follow a 24 row lace pattern for many repeats, THEN do a border...phew!

Ladie's Swing Jacket Patons No. 696 1960s

Time warp to the new century...shawls for women's general wear are back in vogue. Complicated lace patterns are again the order of the day and socks? Does anyone actually knit a plain unpatterned sock these days? Well yes they do, albeit from handspun and handdyed yarn from a limited one off batch spun by the knitter. The choice of yarns is huge and you could never even start to have a bit of every yarn currently produced (I know plenty of people who are trying though!). Knitting has become the pastime of thousands of women and men and we can only hope they are teaching their children this noble art. After all, now that knitting and sewing is no longer being taught in school, where are the new breed going to learn these valuable life skills?

So many yarns, so little time!

2010-10-14T22:32:00.000-07:00

I have way too many knitting patterns and magazines! Actually, I don't think there is such a thing as too many, any more than the strange concept that you can have too much yarn.

Anyway, I was leafing through some mags, looking for a summer tank top pattern. All this browsing made me realise that there are so many different types of yarns, from the big names, to hand-dyed, hand-spun yarns produced by independent boutique designers. Add to this the gazillions of patterns available and it's a wonder any of us can actually find time to knit after gazing at all that is available.

I did worry when I first started to develop my business plan for YarnSoft, that I wouldn't ever be able to provide even a small representation of the variety that is available today. Then I got to thinking, “from little things big things grow”. I love the yarns that I stock, and I hope you will too. I do intend to offer more products from the smaller independents, as I am passionate about promoting local artisans who are inspired to produce yarns that will be cherished by knitters and crocheters.

But, I have decided to start out by offering a broad range of well known brands and listen to you and consider your feedback for future stock purchases.

I'm about to order some Filatura di Crosa Centolavaggi, which is a laceweight, 100% Merino superwash wool. This wool is ideal for lacework shawls, scarves and garments. I will admit that I am not game to tackle lace knitting just yet! I used to do some lacework years ago for general stuff, like baby clothes, back when lacy matinee jackets were still popular, but age and less patience and time have meant that I just don't get it anymore. I find myself making mistakes and losing my place more often than I used to, so I tend to stick to smaller projects these days. Having said that, I have seen so many beautiful lace patterns that I will admit to being tempted to have a bash at a scarf or small shawl. I think I might start with some 4ply, Like FDC Dolce Amore, or Heirloom baby wool. If you have seen any beginner patterns, do let me know.